What our lash AI looks at.

Lashes and lash line

• Extensions or mascara

  Whether your lashes look like they have extensions or mascara on right now. A camera can't tell the two apart.

  Because a camera can miss a set, we ask whether you're wearing extensions before suggesting anything for your lashes, and your answer, not the camera, decides whether we suggest a fill, a removal or something new.

• Lash fullness

  How full your lash line looks from end to end, from light and open to full.

  If your lashes look light along the lash line, we suggest the fuller sets first; if they already look full, softer ones.

  • Research summaries

  • Upper eyelid eyelash count: 90–160 eyelashes

    Nguyen B, Hu JK, Tosti A. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2022 · doi:10.1007/s40257-022-00729-5

• Lash curl

  Whether your lashes sit fairly straight, have a soft curve or already curve up.

  Curl is what a lash lift changes, so it shows whether a lift or a tint would make the bigger difference: lashes that already curve up may only need a tint. Our camera doesn't read curl reliably enough yet to tell you; if you send a pre-visit, it goes on Desiree's studio card with your close-ups.

  • Research summaries

  • In females, 19 (76%) upper eyelid eyelashes were curly.

    Kikuchi M, Matsuda K, Ishihara Y, et al. Global Dermatology, 2015 · doi:10.15761/god.1000123

• Lash direction

  Whether your lashes point the same way, or some point in different directions or cross.

  Lashes that point different ways or cross change how evenly a set or lift sits, so their direction is part of planning one. We tell you when some lashes point their own way.

• Natural lash length

  How long your natural lashes look compared with your lid.

  Your natural length is where a lift or a set starts: it shows whether a lift or extensions would make the bigger difference, and how much length a set adds to your own. The research beside it measured protection, not looks: in airflow studies on a model eye, lashes about one-third of the eye's width protected the eye best, so it is not a rule for how long lashes should look. Our camera doesn't read length reliably enough yet to tell you every time; if you send a pre-visit, it goes on Desiree's studio card with your close-ups.

  Should I get a lash lift or lash extensions?

  • Research summaries

  • Optimal eyelash length is 0.35 ± 0.15 times the eye width.

    Sullivan DA, da Costa AX, Del Duca E, et al. The Ocular Surface, 2023 · doi:10.1016/j.jtos.2023.04.005

  • The optimal mammalian lash length was established as one-third of the width of the eye.

    Aumond S, Bitton E. Journal of Optometry, 2018 · doi:10.1016/j.optom.2018.05.003

• Lash-line gaps

  Whether your lash line looks full from end to end, or has a gap where lashes look to be missing.

  Extensions need natural lashes strong enough to carry them, and a lift or tint works on the lashes themselves. If we see a gap, we leave out extensions, lifts and tints until Desiree has looked at your lashes, and suggest a gentle lash bath meanwhile; brow services still go ahead.

  • Research summaries

  • Natural eyelash loss was reported by 17.3% of wearers compared to 9.6% of nonwearers.

    Kyei S, Ofosu DA, Owusu P, Asiamah R. Cornea, 2026 · doi:10.1097/ico.0000000000004105

  • Humans typically lose and replace between 1 and 4 eyelashes daily.

    Sullivan DA, da Costa AX, Del Duca E, et al. The Ocular Surface, 2023 · doi:10.1016/j.jtos.2023.04.005

• Lash line

  Whether mascara, liner or other product is sitting along your lash line.

  A clean lash line helps extensions and lifts hold, so we tell you what to take off before your visit.

  • Research summaries

  • Most participants wash their face and eyelashes, but fewer use dedicated eyelid cleaning solutions …

    Alkalash SH, Alzubaidi HA, Alsuhaymi NM, et al. Cureus, 2025 · doi:10.7759/cureus.84914

Eyes and lids

• Lid shape

  Whether your lid crease shows when your eyes are open, or the lid folds toward the lash line.

  On a hooded lid the fold can hide your lashes, so a lift or curl needs to show above it. The set itself is designed at your appointment, around your lid.

  What lash extensions work best for hooded eyes?

  • Research summaries

  • Skin folds between the double eyelid crease and lid margin are common, mostly parallel to the crease, increase over age 40, and are less frequent with epicanthal folds.

    Cheng X. Chinese Journal of Medical Aesthetics and Cosmetology, 2003 (程喜平, 中华医学美学美容杂志) · doi:10.3760/cma.j.issn.1671-0290.2003.03.006

  • The upper lid-brow junction is an anatomically complex zone that experiences numerous interconnected changes related to aging.

    Warren RJ. Clinics in Plastic Surgery, 2022 · doi:10.1016/j.cps.2021.12.006

• Eye set

  Whether your eyes look deep-set, average or prominent next to your brow bone.

  If you send a pre-visit, it goes on Desiree's studio card with your close-ups, to help choose a curl and length that clear your brow bone.

• Eye openness

  How open your eyes look when you relax.

  If you send a pre-visit, it goes on Desiree's studio card with your close-ups, to help choose where the longest lashes go.

  • Research summaries

  • Lower eyebrows made eyes appear larger and higher eyebrows made eyes appear smaller, while eyebrow curvature had no effect on perceived eye size.

    Matsushita S, Morikawa K, Mitsuzane S, Yamanami H. Perception, 2015 · doi:10.1068/p7823

• Lid comfort

  Whether your lash line and lids look calm, or look red, puffy or flaky.

  If anything looks irritated, we don't suggest a service from photos. Desiree looks at it with you first.

  • Research summaries

  • FDA-approved dyes for eyebrows and eyelashes can sometimes irritate the ocular surface.

    Kaiserman I. Ocular Immunology and Inflammation, 2003 · doi:10.1076/ocii.11.2.149.15921

  • The glands of Moll are located exclusively at the eyelid margin and their ducts open into the lash follicle.

    Stoeckelhuber M, Stoeckelhuber BM, Welsch U. The Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2003 · doi:10.1046/j.1523-1747.2003.12328.x

Brows

• Brow fullness

  How full your brows look from end to end, including whether the tails look thinner.

  If your brows look light in places, we suggest tinting or lamination, which can fill the look of sparse areas.

  • Research summaries

  • There has been an increased demand for facial hair restoration across genders, with women predominantly aiming to thicken and restore eyebrow density.

    Bared A. Facial Plastic Surgery Clinics of North America, 2019 · doi:10.1016/j.fsc.2019.04.003

• Brow balance

  Whether your two brows look alike in shape and height. Most people's don't, and that's normal.

  If they look noticeably different, we suggest shaping, which can bring them closer together where you want it.

• Brow arch

  Where the highest point of your brow sits over your eye.

  If you send a pre-visit, it goes on Desiree's studio card with your close-ups, to help choose the shaping and lamination for your brows.

  • Research summaries

  • The ideal eyebrow peak was situated on or outside the lateral canthus with an optimal HBP/ICD ratio of 1.2.

    Li H, Yuan J, Xue P, et al. Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, 2025 · doi:10.1007/s00266-025-05236-6

Your photos

• Lash-line view

  Whether your close-ups show your lash line clearly enough to read.

  If they don't, we ask you to retake them instead of guessing, and those close-ups aren't kept to improve our lash AI unless you tick the box yourself. Questions about your brows still go ahead.

• Under-eye shadow

  Whether the area under your eyes looks shadowed in your photos.

  Lighting often causes it, so we note it to read your photos fairly. It never decides a suggestion on its own.

• Visible tone range

  A coarse visible tone range, as it looks in the light of your close-ups: lighter, medium or deeper. It is never a guess about who you are or where you're from.

  It is never shown to you and never changes what we suggest. Desiree's private studio card uses it to suggest a starting tint shade, and we use it to check the camera reads every tone range equally well.

Answers

What does the lash AI look at?

17 things about your lashes, lids and brows: extensions or mascara, lash fullness, lash curl, lash direction, natural lash length, lash-line gaps, lash line, lid shape, eye set, eye openness, lid comfort, brow fullness, brow balance, brow arch, lash-line view, under-eye shadow, and visible tone range. It says in plain words what it sees clearly; the rest go on Desiree's studio card if you send her a pre-visit. 10 of them come with published research, from a library of 1649 screened findings in 399 studies. It never diagnoses.

What happens if my lids look irritated in my close-ups?

If anything looks irritated, we don't suggest a service from photos. Desiree looks at it with you first. The same goes for answers that mention irritation or an eye condition: the lash AI hands you to Desiree instead of suggesting a service.

Why does the lash AI look at my lid shape?

It notes whether your lid crease shows when your eyes are open, or the lid folds toward the lash line. On a hooded lid the fold can hide your lashes, so a lift or curl needs to show above it. The set itself is designed at your appointment, around your lid.

Why would the lash AI leave extensions out?

Extensions need natural lashes strong enough to carry them, and a lift or tint works on the lashes themselves. If we see a gap, we leave out extensions, lifts and tints until Desiree has looked at your lashes, and suggest a gentle lash bath meanwhile; brow services still go ahead. Desiree confirms everything at your visit.

What is the visible tone range?

A coarse visible tone range, as it looks in the light of your close-ups: lighter, medium or deeper. It is never a guess about who you are or where you're from. It is never shown to you and never changes what we suggest. Desiree's private studio card uses it to suggest a starting tint shade, and we use it to check the camera reads every tone range equally well.

Where the research comes from

Our research library holds 1,649 screened findings from 399 published studies on lashes, brows and the eye area. We use it to decide what our lash AI looks at and how we explain it. The findings above are summarized, each with the DOI of its study.